Hi everyone.  Looking to make a water feature but also want it to look aged and rusted in areas.  Was thinking of placing in some metal flakes then spraying my face coat.  Is there a metal that rusts a little faster then others giving me the effect sooner then later?  Thanks for all the help.  I made a sample with some shavings and it has been in my make shift waterfall tank for couple of weeks and the metal is not really rusting. 

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iron maybe? raw steel? I think either of those would rust fairly fast.

In the attach file. I used cut up bolts, wiremesh, screws + so on, but mixed them in my wet cast upside down + vibrated. I used acid stain repeatedly to expose metal. You are going to have to lightly polish to expose metal + either a light a cut muratic bath (many times) or salt water baths to encourage rusting. You'll be surprised what changes will occur just by the outside elements.

Is it possible to mash up iron oxide pellets in water + use the water from that in a mix....?


if you can stand the mess in your forms , use metal thats already rusty it will bleed like sun of a gun. as long as its steel or iron and not galv. it will rust. water air, water air watch it do its thing.

You can get some interesting effects just with surface treatments. Heres an old acid stainers trick: go to your local machine shop and get some metal shavings, aluminum is preferred. Cast your piece in a normal fashion. When cured and ready to finish, sprinkle the aluminum shavings on the areas you want rusted. Now spray acid stain over the surface, an acid wash would do the same if you don't want to stain. The acid will react with the shavings and give you a rusty, garnet patina where they are contacting the concrete. You could tilt the surface slightly to induce some runs. Experiment and have some fun!

Dylan, I've always liked that piece too! Theres no substitute for the elements and what it does to concrete and metal.....rusted metal is one of my favorite finishes.


What about playing with Iron Sulfate?

From the man himself: 

"Use the iron sulfate as a stain over the non sealed surface. Mix about a 1/2 cup Iron Sulfate in a quart of water and let deslove. Waring gloves soak a clean cotton rag and wipe it over the surface and let it sit. It will turn green before oxidizing out to a rusty orange. If you want a deeper rust color apply again. Let it dry out and hit it with a #400 sand paper before dusting and sealing. Use a lacquer sealer or equal to pop the color. Apply the Satin Sealer over the lacquer to get better stain protection." Buddy Rhodes

spritz a little vinegar on the metal, it will help the oxidation.  repeated apps.  You can add a smidge of hydrogen peroxide to the Vinegar to really accelerate it. heat will help the process along. 

If it's a flat panel.  Then I reckon you could spray an adhesive into the form, then broadcast mild steel metal shavings.  Then pour an SCC mix over the top or spray and dab with a brush.  You may have to polish a bit, depending on how well the steel holds onto the mold and what look you're after. 

mark ,i mean father v, those look really cool!  they are acid stained terra cota? mine alwys come out red,brown, rusty colors. you must be using multiple colors,like amber and black and some green? either way they just look cool.

Hope you all had a great weekend.  Thank you so much for the ideas and taking some time out of your busy crazy day to help me out.  Take care everyone. 

Give the concrete a scrubbing with steel wool or perhaps cut it up and chuck it in the mix , rusts really fast.

Andy,.. thanks for the words! Paul,... yes,.. that beyotch was finished + sealed, a month or so later, I actually wiped bleeding rusted water from it. It was called "tears of rust" on Etsy. The metal used in it was my late fathers... so it fit I guess. With the aluminu shavings trick,... I always get a maroon color after. When I remove the maroon color semi hard sludge,... it is unstained underneath. Andy,.. you get not the same result?  

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