Shep, in a moment of desperation while trying to make EAP look good, I decided to completely disregard the instructions and try something different. First, I don't roll or spray, for the same reasons you're encountering. I have found these chenille hats and socks in our local dollar store, and they make the best applicators for this sealer. I buy a few pairs, wash and dry them to lose the lint, and then use them to wipe on the sealer.
For the first coat, I mix a 1:1 solution with denatured alcohol and completely soak the sock (or hat) in it. Squeeze it out lightly so that it just holds the sealer in without dripping. Then lightly wipe the surface with it, working from one side to the next, always leaving a wet edge and not going over areas that have been coated. Wipe the edges as well. Wait no more than 20 min., just enough that you don't leave a distinct fingerprint in the sealer. Then take a scotchbrite pad (maroon or grey) in your hands and with small circular motions, buff the surface to eliminate wipe marks. You need to keep the scotchbrite pad moving at all times, if you stop, it will stick to the surface and possibly damage the sealer. Don't worry about small scratches the pad might put in.
Wait another 30 min. or so, then mix a 1:3 solution (sealer:DA), 'rinse' out the sock in the dilute solution and repeat the wipe-on application. You will find that with more DA, the sealer dries up much faster than the 1:1 solution. Repeat the buff by hand, scrubbing the wipe marks more aggressively. Then put the scotchbrite on an RO sander and go over the surface again. Don't let the sander stop on the surface - pick it up before it stops moving.
If you want the surface shiny, wait a few hours or overnight and buff with a variable speed dry polisher and a grey scotchbrite. If you see wipe marks at this time, sand them out gently by hand and re-polish.