Well, I've done a ton of research and the first concrete counter tops are coming out of the castings. Everything is looking great with the casting. It's a 'jet black' mix with black glass. I've decided I love the look/color of the concrete when it's wet, but it turns sort of 'blah' when dry. Is there a good sealer which would preserve this 'wet' look? ideally, make the concrete as dark as possible, and have a matte finish?

I was gearing up to go with the E3/2K system, but now I seem to read this sealer will leave the concrete a little darker than dry, but not as dark as wet? If so, that might rule it out as a sealer. Any help, or thoughts of how to get the 'wettest' possible look out of the sealer.


Views: 2145

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion


Encounter has a product called en-spartic and it leaves the concrete with a very wet look and makes black very black. 2 part system that is around a $100 for a quart of a & b.
Great. Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely check this sealer out.
Hi Corey,

I'm actually looking for the same thing right now as one of my customers requested a pure dark black colour that you can only achieve with a very wet look.

I spoke with Bob at Surface 519 and he said that EAP gives a wet look but I don't know how dark it is. Since I can't get a sample and haven't used EAP, I don't want to splurge and buy a gallon for testing.

If anyone has any info on how dark EAP is please let me know as I would like to stick to a single component sealer.

On another note, the sealer i currently use can be applied over existing sealers so I'm not worried actual stain protection but just achieving the actual wet look. I will be appyling overtop any way so all that matters for me is appearance.

Ah - another lead - I can't really speak for the EAP either. I did send a quick email Encounter:

I am looking for a concrete counter top sealer which will enhance the 'black' of a jet black concrete mix. ... I've been told your enSpartic sealer may provide these qualities. Can you confirm the enSpartic sealer will enhance the concrete color and provide this 'wet look' ?

Corey, I believe you would be well pleased with enSPARTIC. enSpartic will give a deep wet look to your top. It can be ordered by calling 888 848 0059 or you can visit www.thestampstore.com

So it is definitely on the short list. But I agree - it would be neat to be able to get a small sample to try out.
Hey there Corey...You can visit www.uvsealer.com to find out more on the EAP as well as the UV Counter...which is pretty much the same only cured instantly with a uv light. With the EAP..you can adjust the finish once cured. You may matte it out...or bring it up to a gloss(wet look)which looks very natural. With some practice..you can apply the sealer and not have to do any sanding(only buffing) to achieve the gloss finish. This is a 1 component sealer as stated already...think of it as a penetrating topical sealer that is enviromentally friendly. As far as how dark it is???? Well it does enhance the color of your concrete which will darkin as it is applied. The product has a tint in color but goes down clear...no yellowing! Which some wet look sealers do over time..There are several threads on here that go into alot more detail or you can always call me 541 610 5950 Jason
Higher gloss, more "wet" look, to my experience. I have used Advacoat polyaspartic. It is great... and enjoy it.. it is a thin build, and fast cure, low and no voc. I enjoy it, and it does give a great wet look.. down side, once you mix it, HAUL COOKIES to get it on, it sets within 15 min, so you need to run and run hard. i have had a job that i let run longer-- on a floor- and did not get it down fast enough.. my bad... and when i mixed the next batch,.... bad news for the floor, good learning for me.. it had changed viscosity and was thin, like the start... but as it set up, it gets thicker, and thus does not penetrate the surface as well, thus a color shift..

call Julie or Joe at Advacoat, and they have a great sample pack for about 50 bucks, and well more then enough test on alot of stuff. plus if you use acetone or MEK to thin it is water thin and really go far. very hard, much harder then epoxy and urethanes


call them at 480-888-2628 tell them I sent ya!
I have used the E32K, and the EAP. Between the two the EAP is far more wetting of the color. It's way darker than the ICT reactive, and any of the acrylics, including TekSeal. Haven't tried the UV but I hear it looks a lot like the EAP's wetness. If your just getting started the EAP would be my choice for wet color enhancement. Read the other posts for application info. I wouldn't plan on putting anything over the EAP though. It's redundant. And if it's ProSeal on top you'll just make it look like plastic. Don't know if it will stick or not, but why bother.

Click on the addtional photographs. The stuff looks like it's dripping wet.
Ok - After thorough review and consideration of several factors, I went with the EnSpartic system in a satin finish. As far as look, it was exactly what I wanted. The mix is off-the-shelf Quikcrete 5000 psi with 10% extra cement, 10% Super Sealz, Air minus defoamer, Supercizer 7 retarding plasticizer, and the max amount of Jet Black Liquid pigment. I sprinkled black glass pebbles into the form, then added the concrete mix. Once set, II ground the surface with diamond wheels of 50, 100 and 200 grit - just enough to reveal the glass and the tips of the limestone aggregate. Then coated with EnSpartic sealer.

The overall result - the concrete surface is a spectacular blend of colors - ranging from the jet black glass, very dark gray concrete, brown/tan sand/small pebbles, light gray limestone, and nearly translucent quartz. The EnSpartic came through and gave the the super depth of "wet" color I was looking for and the satin finish dulls the surface sheen enough that the concrete almost takes on a 3 dimensional quality it looks like you could dip your hand in and splash around. It will be interesting to see how the wear and stain resistance work out, but as far as looks, I'm 100% satisfied.

Thanks to all who offered their time and expertise.

Jason ,

I have been reading your posts on EAP - I am using it (matte) for the first time and have been having some trouble with it. I applied my 1st coat 1:1 with a roller (which left lines), let it cure for a day, sanded with a 220 grit on a random orbit sander, and may have tried too hard to get the lines out and perhaps may have burnt through in the thinner areas. I sprayed a 1:2 with an hvlp after sanding, and now I have a bit of orange peel , sheen patterns, and a smear or two from my gun dripping. I am on a deadline here, and it seems at every turn something goes wrong. How can I even out the sheen, and would it be cheating too much to just wax the tops the mask any variations? I would really appreciate your help. (Also, I only have a 1/4 of a quart left.)

I am not sure if this is a dangerous question to ask or not, but how about using wax to somewhat mask the sheen difference, and is there any danger in too many coatsof sealer, which may not even correct the problem anyways?

Alla Linetsky said:
Shep, in a moment of desperation while trying to make EAP look good, I decided to completely disregard the instructions and try something different. First, I don't roll or spray, for the same reasons you're encountering. I have found these chenille hats and socks in our local dollar store, and they make the best applicators for this sealer. I buy a few pairs, wash and dry them to lose the lint, and then use them to wipe on the sealer.

For the first coat, I mix a 1:1 solution with denatured alcohol and completely soak the sock (or hat) in it. Squeeze it out lightly so that it just holds the sealer in without dripping. Then lightly wipe the surface with it, working from one side to the next, always leaving a wet edge and not going over areas that have been coated. Wipe the edges as well. Wait no more than 20 min., just enough that you don't leave a distinct fingerprint in the sealer. Then take a scotchbrite pad (maroon or grey) in your hands and with small circular motions, buff the surface to eliminate wipe marks. You need to keep the scotchbrite pad moving at all times, if you stop, it will stick to the surface and possibly damage the sealer. Don't worry about small scratches the pad might put in.

Wait another 30 min. or so, then mix a 1:3 solution (sealer:DA), 'rinse' out the sock in the dilute solution and repeat the wipe-on application. You will find that with more DA, the sealer dries up much faster than the 1:1 solution. Repeat the buff by hand, scrubbing the wipe marks more aggressively. Then put the scotchbrite on an RO sander and go over the surface again. Don't let the sander stop on the surface - pick it up before it stops moving.

If you want the surface shiny, wait a few hours or overnight and buff with a variable speed dry polisher and a grey scotchbrite. If you see wipe marks at this time, sand them out gently by hand and re-polish.
are you guys testing the results of the diluted sealer? From my experiences the only way eap is acid proof is if it goes on full strength.

When spraying full strength you can avoid orange peel effect by laying it on thicker until it glasses out. to the point of it being dripping wet, thin coats tend to be textured

Reply to Discussion


© 2015   Created by Dave McVey.

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service