Hello. I recently poured my tops 3 days ago and when screeding the back I guess some aggregate got pulled out in spots leaving some areas that look like they could use patching. I tried to trowel it but I guess the that point it was too late and I couldn't smooth it. I know you wont see it but I want it to be smooth when you run your hands under it. I was thinking of using a sand topping mix with some pigment to somewhat match color and an acrylic fortifier. Again not worried about every little pin hole just want to take care of the areas that are dug out below level. Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Your on the right track.  Basically your simply slurring or grouting the voids.  Since your not going to see it a topping mix would work or make your own...

The acrylic polymer is the key for adhesion and curing.

Thanks for the quick response. Is the acrylic fortifier taking place of water or is it in addition?
Grout / Slurry mix
Weight Grams
Cement 800 Total 1000 grams cementitious.  Can be just Portland
CSA 200
   
Microspheres Sm(.1-.3mm) 200 bulk filler/ shrinkage reducer/acts like ball bearing filling in pin holes
Pigment (optional) % Is usually the same % as main mix
   
Acrylic Slurry Liquid Admix can be made using 1 part KongKrete Liquid polymer and 4-5 parts water  
mix to desired consistancy.
Dry ingredients(you can mix up as much dry and store in buckets until ready to use)
Wet ingredients(Mix up as much as you want and store in sealed container until ready to use)
Lightly dampen surface then mix slurry into a peanut butter consistency using polymer and water solution then spread into voids. Make sure the slurry is packed into the entire void using hand, grout float, sponge or whatever works.  
And is the sika concrete bonding adhesive and acrylic fortifier ok. What ratio should be mixed?

Anthony...I put our slurry mix below.  The acrylic is in addition.  We use one part Kong Polymer (50% polymer solids) to 4-5 parts water.


Anthony Argiropoulos said:

Thanks for the quick response. Is the acrylic fortifier taking place of water or is it in addition?
Thanks so much Tom. Is that Sika brand bonding adhesive and fortifier ok to use? It's what I was able to find locally.

It should be ok but I don't think it has as high a solids content so you may dilute with less water....

Anthony Argiropoulos said:

Thanks so much Tom. Is that Sika brand bonding adhesive and fortifier ok to use? It's what I was able to find locally.
Thank you.

Hi Anthony,

I believe the Sika fortifier is about 12% solids.  To get the same amount of solids using Sika, using Tom's ratio of 5:1 or 6:1 water to Kong Krete, you would use 2 parts Sika, 1 part water.  

I've used the Sika for a slurry and it works, but when you look at economics the Kong Krete is a better product.  It takes over 4 gallons of the Sika to get the same amount of solids as in one gallon of Kong Krete.  So to equal the 5 gallons of Kong Krete at $125, you'd need to buy 21 gallons of Sika.  At $12 each, that is about $250 + tax.  Even with the cost of shipping Kong Krete, the Sika ends up costing you more.  It seems cheap at first because you can grab a bottle at home depot, but in the long run you end up paying way more for the Sika.

Thanks for the advice.

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