At what point do you paint/spray it on? Do you do the whole piece at once, or work just ahead of yourself? I have not tried this but working alone on a piece 15-20 sq.ft., it is tough to stay in front of the set. This sounds like it may be the a big help.
I'm going to attempt this technique of brushing on the diluted Forton to keep the face coat workable. I've been having some similar problems with the high temps and low humidity here, of which I'm sure your use to. I'm using your old mix design and may have to step up on the plasticizer or maybe a little extra water to help eliminate the face coat setting up so fast. I'm up to at least 3 oz. of advacast and may end up going as high as 3.5 to 4 with the next mix. Is a slight amount of extra water necessary or will it hamper the mix? Thanks
Gore Design Co. said:
I dilute the Forton 50/50 with water and paint it on with a disposable paint brush.
Robert Winckler said:
I had a similar problem on my first spray up and tend to agree with Jeremy. If you go thin it dries that much quicker. I also was trying to drop the binder as low as possible to reduce the porosity of these cement rich designs.
I have contemplated the acrylic on the back of the face for large molds to extend the working time. I would like to spray it to the back of the face rather than brushing by hand. For those doing this kind of thing what is the weapon of choice? HVLP spray gun?
Slurry that baby up and put a little acid stain on it and sell it on Craigslist. Get at least your materials out of it. I experienced a melamine failure this past week. The face of the melamine blistered and the facecoat stuck to it. Check your mold and make sure that this did not happen to you.