Any ideas on this stuff some folks I trust say I should give it a shot? Any one using it?

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Hey Tommy,
I know you don't know me but I use RockTop CT and EAP and in my opinion, they are almost identical. I bought the CT to do an on-site reseal of a job we sealed with EAP (don't recommend doing that by the way) and it worked like a charm. I rolled it on and it looked like I sprayed it. I also used it on a commercial bar top I did a week ago and same story. Rolling it helps mitigate a lot of the pinholes versus sprayed with an HVLP which we all know doesn't work it in the holes at all. I am actually making the switch to completely using Rock Top because I like rolling it (puts it on a little thicker) and the work time is a lot longer. It really just depends on what you're used to and how willing you are to try new things =) I like it a lot
will it bond well to EAP?
No, it doesn't bond to strait EAP. I talked to Bob Chatterton a bit while I was in the middle of this and there are a couple things that are really helpful. First, try really hard to never have to do an on-sight reseal, depending on the size of the job, it could be one of the worst things you'll ever do. Second, you have to sand the EAP really thoroughly, or it might start to delam over time, and then you really have a mess. Use sandpaper in the 180 to 220 range. No more coarse than 180 cause the scratches from the paper really stand out and no finer than 220 because it won't put enough bite in the EAP.
DO NOT sand through the sealer to the concrete or you'll have to sand the whole thing all the way down and that definitely is the worst thing ever... EAP is hard as s***. The reason being the bare concrete will enhance more than the sealed concrete and you'll have leopardy, blotchy concrete. Clean the freshly sanded concrete really, really well with denatured alcohol or acetone. Its hard to see rag swirls on site especially if the lighting is bad so do two or three really thorough wipe-downs, just to make sure. Finally, really work hard at getting the lint and fuzz out of the roller nap (especially if its new). Duck-tape works well. That is all the nuggets of wisdom I have. RockTop bonds to RockTop and EAP bonds to EAP (still sand a little in between depending on how long its cured) so if you have EAP on the surface and think you could roll a coat before the EAP sets up (2-5 min) do that. Happy sealing!
From what I think I know, the advantages over EAP are a longer pot life and a much thinner consistency without having to cut the product. Not cutting will increase stain resistance right away and using the boost will also help. I beleive scratch resistance is the same. Give 519 a call for more info.

Dan Hodgson said:
How's the scratch resistance and stain resistance? I like the application and look of EAP but the acid resistance doesn't do it for me is Rock Top CT better ?
As far as I know, Bob Chatterton has told me that the Achilles heel of EAP is vinegar. Rock Top is the same however, it has the optional primer that is completely vinegar proof thus minimizing that problem. The longer pot life allows you to roll it on, applying a thicker application which improves scratch resistance. Every topical sealer on the market scratches. EAP and RockTop hold up better than all the ones I have used and I've tried a bunch.
How does the primer help with vinegar if it is under the sealer?
If the vinegar gets through the sealer, it won't get through the primer and thus, won't stain the concrete...
couple quick things, I believe you can use the boost with the EAP a well for the vinegar resistance. As for building up coats and making it thicker, I don't agree that this will help scratch resistance. the thicker it is the more easily it will scratch as the build up is thicker. I would stay with a very thin mill. Maybe lay the first coat on thick, to bridge the pinners, then sand it down a bit and apply a couple thin coats and call it done. Just my thoughts.
ill agree with your thoughts Tommy =) I was just referencing some conversation I had with Bob C about the microscopic view of EAP when it isn't thick enough and how that might not give it enough scratch protection and how the tips from Home Depot's HVLP guns don't apply enough material and that might be my problem, you know how Bob is... What's a mill??
I'm not a Rock Top CT expert and I feel like I have responded this post to death, peace out
Never too much input Jordon, that is what this thing is all about. As for a mil, it is a Mother I would Like, no wait that's milf, mil is thickness, like 6 mil plastic. here is the definition A unit of length equal to one thousandth (10 -3) of an inch (0.0254 millimeter), used, for example, to specify the diameter of wire or the thickness of materials sold in sheets.

Jordan McCaslin said:
I'm not a Rock Top CT expert and I feel like I have responded this post to death, peace out

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