researching sealers this is what i was told ..
regular old Spar Urethane. Yep, the same stuff you can buy at the hardware store. Funny, on the can it says countertops are one of the uses. It fits the bill, easy to apply, consistent texture, non-yellowing, and very hard. From here out two coats of satin urethane and a coat of wax will be the standard. It does also bring out the wet look color just like epoxy and has a higher heat rating than epoxy.
Anyone use it, is it just that simple ?

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Im testing it out right now. I have a sink done it it and some other test samples. Oh and a few planters outdoors.

It does sorta fit the bill but there are a few things to think and know about.

In my tests, yes it resists everything from oil, gas, lemon juice, wine, coke, dye, acetone, alcohol, all of it. Hell MEK even takes a while to get through to it, but that is what I am using to take it off with.

Thats pretty much what stoneloks 2k is and they now say thats all they use, no epoxy or primer, just the 2k.

This spar urethane stinks but after its cured its fine. It is food safe too. It will scratch though so it may be worth noting to apply thin as possible.

My scratch results came from rolling a coat and then spraying a coat on top of that. I think its too thick.

You will have to master the spraying and I guess just try and mimic the application of stoneloks 2k sealer.

One piece I had I thinned it 50/50 mineral spirits with urethane and I rubbed in several coats. I had a barely there feel and it repelled a lot. I need to test with that further.

Play with it and let us know your results.

unfortunately, it is not that simple. You will have moisture and possible de lam issues.  Expansion and contraction are totally different. 

And it is kinda funny to see something like this question come full circle.  What I mean is that there are many of us that were doing and testing out theories on mix design and sealers before people even knew what concrete countertops were.  We have been down all these roads.  It may work for a bit, but it will not work in the long term..it will fail.

Think of it this way...if it did work, that company would have already re packaged it and be selling it as a concrete sealer.  It it did work, Buddy, Blue, Cheng, Trinic and so on would not be selling what they are selling.  You would also not see major players in this industry still looking for the holy grail.

I say this not to discourage you, but to have you think about what you are testing.  Ask yourself.....I wonder if any one else has thought to try this.  If the answer is likely yes, then I would not waste the time.  If it is something that no one has maybe thought of, like a sealer used on lures for deep sea fishing, then I may give it a try.

My suggestion...find one you like and start selling stuff!!  Set the expectations of the client based on the sealer you choose and run with it.  I have watched companies go broke from spending all their time in the "lab" and no where enough in the "marketing department".  Just my 2 cents

If you are going to use urethane then try devthane 379h aliphatic urethane.  we have pieces with it on now for over one year.  It has incredible grab and when we have had to remove it comes of as a powder not in pieces.  It is also very very abrasive resistant and food grade safe.  We put on two coats then we use WB UV cured product over top.  I am not sold totally on the UV product but I am sold on the devthane. 

 

 

Ashby has been using Urethane for years.

I think Cheng and Buddy are more of a "truest."  They would rather feel the concrete and let it patina naturally then have a coating.

I believe Blue and Trinic see the problems of countertop sealers and are getting close to a great product.

 

Ashby's is not just a regular urethane though Mike, is it?  I lend to the truest side some too, I will always like my acrylics.  The new stuff coming out is the next phase and I like what I see there too.  It will be interesting to watch the next 5 years of this industry.  Many things have already come full circle and we are moving from infant to toddler stages in a product cycle.

Can't wait to see what's next!!!

oh great the terrible two's!!! this industry is screwed!!! hahahaha

here is something I have been thinking about for a while.  After lots and lots of reading ICT is its most effective when the slabs are heated prior to sealing so a off gasing and in gasing effect.  Would it be safe to say that heating your pads during cure and prior to applying to any penetrating sealer would have a similar effect?  

Not suggesting they would match the abilities of ICT but would their performance be improved?

in most any situation it is best to seal when the tops are in a cool down mode.  Heat them up and then apply sealer.  Do not apply sealer while they are heating up.  This is just a general rule.

Quote..I have been rolling on two coats of urethane with a foam roller. Spar urethane is normally used on hardwood floors and is very hard. It has some of the best scratch resistance of any of the sealers I have tried. The abrasion resistance of the spar urethane is similar to the industrial floor epoxy I had been using. We push beer bottles and tools across it without seeing any scratches. Just make sure it has cured at least 24 hours in 70 degree conditions before testing how hard it is.
Single part polyurethane is softer and can scratch. That did not perform very well in the abrasion testing.
. You need to make sure the surface is clean and dry and the second coat needs to be within 24 hours of the first coat going on. Rubbing the surface with a scotch brite pad gives some texture for the urethane to bond. It soaks into the dry concrete, the only delam issues that could happen is if wax or oil gets between the first and second coats. This would be a problem for any other sealers too.

Who is the quote from?

I thought this was a good read and explanation of many densifiers because I dont know about anyone else but I always got confused between Silicanates, silicates and silanes.  

http://www.mightyseal.com/concrete_sealer_types.html

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