Cale Wagner
  • Columbus, GA
  • United States
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  • Jon Schuler
  • Tom Fischer- Fishstone,CCS
  • Boom Bechkowiak

Cale Wagner's Discussions

wood look?

Started this discussion. Last reply by Ian Chamberlain Mar 17, 2015. 2 Replies

I havent started to research it yet, but just had a customer ask if I could make her island look like wood. I know I seen people do it but I dont know where to start looking for molds, technique,…Continue

Clean up systems

Started Feb 5, 2015 0 Replies

Hey Guys, my landlord is getting starting to get aggravated with me about the mess the Im making behind my shop. Just curious to see what everyone does about cleaning their equipment (mixers,…Continue

polishing vs. a muriatic acid wash

Started this discussion. Last reply by David Burke Mar 9, 2015. 42 Replies

I know this question as been asked a million times on here but for the life of me I can never achieve the look that im going for. My issue is polishing or honing. I make wet cast and gfrc and have…Continue


Started this discussion. Last reply by Noah Johnson Nov 21, 2014. 1 Reply

Now that it a little colder in my shop no more need for ice in my GFRC mix but wondering if i need an accelerator. Im working on a vanity top and its taking forever for my mist coat to tack over so…Continue


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At 6:27am on January 8, 2015, Boom Bechkowiak said…

P.S.    - The mix in the comment below is by no means flowable.

It's more like a sticky, boney, ooze.  But it works. 

At 8:08pm on January 7, 2015, Boom Bechkowiak said…


Sure thing;

I'm going to tell you what I do to cast a bug hole free glass aggregate mix.

I don't know the extent of your knowledge so I may tell you things you already know.

Below is the mix and quantities I use - this yields 1- 12" x 12" x 1" tile

     #2 glass  - 2.24 lbs

     #1 glass  - 1 lb

     #0 glass  - 1 lb.

     #70 (or 30) silica quartz sand  - 1 lb

     #16 glass (this is usually only available in clear  - #30 sand could be subbed for this)

     100 minus glass powder  - .4 lb.

     Federal white cement  - 3 lbs

     Brite Fume (white silica fume)  - .5 lb

     Metolat defoamer   - 7.2 grams

     Metolat shrinkage reducing admixture  - 14 grams

     Trinic powdered Super Plasticizer  - 6.8 grams

     Water .32 w/c (calculated on Cement only)  - .96 lbs

I dry mix all dry ingredients then add all the water.

I never cast without using release agent on the face and sides of the mold

I place a thin layer on the surface of the mold probably not more than 1/4"

I roll this with a spike roller - a 9" spike roller usually used on epoxy - it picks up a few pieces of glass but does not affect the outcome. Roll several passes both directions. I will also roll the edges with a wheel roller to get the edges that the 9" roller didn't actually contact.

     Once I have a face coat, I'll add whatever fiber I am using to the balance of the mix and mix it in. Fiber is a terrible air trap especially in a glass mix. I usually use a 10mm scrim usually two layers one near the face one near the back.

     Then I continue to layer the mix in the mold rolling after each layer. A 1" or 1-1/4" thick casting would be 3 to 4 layers  - face coat and 2 to 3  layers  to top off.

     I try to roll the vertical sides at each lift - actually kind of pushing the mix against the mold faces with the wheel roller.

     I don't vibrate a glass mix. I struggled the same way you have always trying to vibrate but the vibration seems to create more air and voids in a glass mix.

     When you have topped off the mold and rolled the back side there should be bleed water present, but it is a very rich,dense nearly air free layer that actually makes a very finished smooth looking back coat.

     You don't have to use the Metolat defoamer or SRA but you do need a defoamer. I have tried several of them and like Metolat the best. Not cheap either.

     If the piece has to be white white, the silica sand should be white also.

You should be able to get that at a block/masonry supply house. They usually have it for guys mixing mortar for glass block.

     Last time I cast a glass mix with white glass I got it from Heritage Glass and it must have had some residual sugar on it because the mix was severely retarded. It set but took twice as long. 

I actually get a tighter denser face on the piece if I don't use any #2 size glass and just increase the amount of #1's to make up the weight.

     I have tried a lot of Super Plasticizers and like Trinic's the best. It doesn't seem to produce as much air in the mix and I like the fact it is a powder, powder is easier to work with. Also, it is white-ish in color.

     I also prefer the "H" shaped paddle on my hand held mixer for a glass mix.

Hope this helps,



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